The greatest thing about the AR-15 is its versatility. You can build a Short barreled CQB gun or a long range SPR on the same platform. However, I believe that one rifle should be able to do it all.
By do it all, I mean that it should be able to make rapid and accurate hits from 0-400 yards, all in one rifle.
With that in mind, my list of recommendations follows. Keep in mind that I am by no means an expert, just somewhat knowledgeable. This is what I have gathered over the last two years as I researched, and my personal opinion, which does happen to be shared by more than a few.
THE MOST IMPORTANT THING. Buy from reputable manufacturers. Good ones, with great reputations, for good stuff. Companies you know will back their product up if you do happen to have a problem.
My personal recommendation would be to build a lower and buy a complete upper.
A lower can be put together in under an hour in your basement with no tools beyond a couple screwdrivers and some pin punches. See here for an explanation on why I recommend building the lower and not upper, with instructions (that include pictures!). http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_3_4/226782_Assemble_your_own_LOWER__UPPER__FREE_FLOAT__TRIGGER__GAS_BLOCK___Step_by_step_instructions_.html
(Short version for those of you too lazy to click the link: building uppers requires special expensive tools, the lower doesn’t)
Also , building your own lower allows you to have more customization and save some serious coin. It saved me, on my build, about $150.
Now, the specific parts:
A mid-length 16” DI upper. This is a 9” gas system, two inches longer than the standard CAR/M4. Better reliability and mildly softer felt recoil. 16” because it is close to max velocity for the 5.56, but you can still maneuver in closer quarters with it.
I don’t recommend piston. I fail to see the utility of cramming an operating system that wasn’t designed for the AR into it. Also, from what I understand, the reliability advantage doesn’t come into play until after about round 100 with no cleaning.
Something really cool is the dissipater, which is a 16” barrel with a full length hand guard. I’ve liked the ones I’ve shot. You get a really long sight radius (better accuracy with irons) and a lot fo room to put your hand and whatever stuff you feel the need to hang on your gun.
Barrel. As mentioned before, 16”, because it has decent velocity but you can still use it indoors or from a vehicle if need be. I would recommend chrome lined (for use with corrosive ammo, because that may be all you can find someday). Get either a 5.56 or .223 Wylde chamber for use and accuracy with both .223 and 5.56 NATO ammo. Versatility is good.
Muzzle device: As the AR has every little recoil, but a huge (proportionately) muzzle blast, go with a flash hider instead of a muzzle brake. The standard A2 is fine, and is probably what come sstandard, but a Vortex Phantom has even less flash.
Hand guards. Free float is really cool. It costs more. The standard handguards or Magpul MOE ones (what I’m using currently) work fine. Free frost adds accuracy, and makes it so your sling tension can’t bend the barrel and shift point of impact (a valid concern at Appleseed). If you can afford free float, go for it, if not, not a huge loss.
Sights. You want irons, even if you run optics (which I’ll get to in a bit). Optics are a lot easier to break. The standard A2 triangle front sight is fine. Durable, fairly easy to adjust if you need to. Yes, it gets in the way of a scope, but you really don’t notice it at all.
You want a folding rear sight. A fixed one does get in the way, especially if you have a reasonably high power scope. I personally would recommend the Matech. It’s a folding sight adjustable for range, so all you have to do, once you are zeroed, is click it over to the correct range and fire. I first saw this in the GG&G ranging MAD. which is what I run, but the Matech does the same thing for way, way, cheaper just as well. Check EBAY, you can get surplus ones that are still functional, just scratched up, for about $30.
Optics. I personally think a 1-4x scope in a good solid mount will cover all of the bases you need. An Eotech with a 3x magnifier might do the same, but a low power variable scope is much simpler. Simplicity and precision in all things, right?
Other upper stuff: Extended charging handles, VFGs, etc. Personal preference. My advice would be spend your money on the important stuff (barrels, bolts, sights, and trigger) and then add these on later if you are so inclined.
The lower. As I said before, the upper is where you want to put most of your money. Then buy the cheapest mil-spec lower you can find, stick a decent parts kit in, and put em both together.
The lower stuff:
Stock: I recommend a collapsible stock not for the reasons you would think. Not to fit everybody, or anything like that. The standard A2 stock fits most people just fine. You only have problems if you are wearing it with 2 winter coats or body armor. No, I recommend a collapsing stock because it makes the gun shorter for storage. Also, they are lighter, and ARs can get pretty heavy. For models, just get what you can afford, and upgrade later if you need to. The standard M4 works fine, but the Magpul MOE is more steady for not much more. Caveat, it’s harder to mount a sling to the MOE.
Trigger: Mil-spec triggers are fine. But, not ideal by any means. They aren’t the friendliest triggers in the world by a long shot. So, a slightly better trigger is nice. You could drop 150-300 on a great JP or Giselle, and you have that much extra lying around after buying an obscene amount of mags and ammo, go for it. But, for 50-60 bucks, you could get either a Spikes Battle trigger ( 5 pound pull) or a ALG Defence trigger (5.5-6).
Pistol grip: The standard A2 pistol grip is terrible, in my opinion. I hate that tiny profile with the stupid little finger bump. If you can use it, good for you. But, just go a gun store and grab a rifle with one of those to handle. Odds are it’ll bother you. I use the Magpul MOE grip, it’s cheap, bigger, and no bump. Again, personal preference, and with this more then anything, you’ll probably end up trying a whole bunch of em.
Accessories:
I already covered optics.
Grab as many 30rd mags you can. Aluminum GIs work fine, and are cheap. I have nothing against PMAGS or Troy Battlemags, or the other high-quality plymer/steel mags, but they’re more expensive. Also, get some 20 rounders for prone shooting.
Get a decent sling. Something you can use in tactical shooting, but still use for support in positions. The Viking VTAC, Blue Force Gear VTAC, and Ares Armor Amentum are all great.
You might want a light if you are planning on using it after dark. Actually, anyways, because you never know…. I’m currently researching this myself, and will update this post once I find some good stuff out.
That’s about it for specific parts for an AR. There’s lots of cool stuff you can add, but these are the basics, and all I think you really need. Again, just my personal opinion, gathered from way too many hours of research.
I plan on updating this post with some links and pictures once I get the chance, but I just wanted to get it up for now.
As always, comments welcomed and requested.















































